63: Mesoamerican Reef

Mesoamerican Reef, Quintana Roo, Mexico
M E X I C O

The hundred meter open-ocean swim I’m about to dive into has me a little nervous.  On a map, the swim didn’t look to be this far.  I’m alone in a third world country which is providing no safety net for a solo American snorkeler like me.  No lifeguards or guides nearby.  But I’ve come a long way to see the Mesoamerican reef so I’m not backing down from the hundred meter swim. 

The reef stretches more than 600 miles and is the largest in the western hemisphere - a rich mosaic of beaches, coastal wetlands, mangrove forests, 500 types of fish, and several endangered species including the saltwater crocodile – adding even more fuel to my nervousness.  

What primarily brought me to Mexico is an insurance conference, but what has me about to swim out to the reef is my deep interest in The Nature Conservancy (TNC).  There is a nice connection between the two – where my in office and out of office interests intersect.  With TNC as a broker, one of the world’s largest insurance companies (Swiss Re) has come into an agreement with the Mexican government to fund restoration in the event the reef is damaged during a hurricane.  Both Swiss Re and the Mexican government know the value of this reef – not only is it a rich mosaic of beauty and wildlife, it also acts as a significant buffer when storm surge strikes the Yucatan Peninsula.  Having funds available to preserve and restore the reef brings stability to the Mexican economy.  

The borrowed snorkel gear I’m donning is of surprisingly decent quality.  It fits snugly, and within a minute of pushing off I’ve figured out the proper head angle to keep the breathing tube above the rolling surf.  The sights grow better as I swim toward the tiny island which is nothing more than a few square meters of exposed reef.   I glide atop a seagrass bed whose plants sway in the current as if waving me onward.  The encouragement thwarts my nervousness and I fall into a nice rhythm with the water. 

Approaching the island, the water becomes shallower but I avoid contact knowing this reef is threatened by over-fishing, pollution, sedimentation, and what I’m at risk of doing: inappropriate tourism practices.  It’s important that I not add to its challenge so I keep my hands and feet off despite an urge stand and rest. 

Swaying in the shallows, some of the 500 species of fish begin to appear.  It’s Yellow Day at this island; most have sunny stripes making them easy to spot.  Though some scamper as I approach, the curious schools move in for a closer look when I hover.  Differing colored corals and seagrasses add to the vibrancy of the underwater palette.  I’m so glad I brought a waterproof camera.  In every direction I point it the sights are spectacular, and I try my best to point it in every direction possible.   

Submerged in warm water, without an oxygen-clock ticking, amid dampened sounds, vivid imagery and weightlessness is one of life’s most peaceful experiences, and it’s made me completely forget about the earlier nervousness.  I’ve only snorkeled a handful of times in my life but each has been an amazing experience bringing powerful memories. 

As I drift away from the island and begin returning to shore, not only has another powerful snorkeling memory been captured, but so too has a feeling of mission-accomplished.  In my continual quest to collect TNC-dedicated properties, the Mesoamerican reef has brought new challenges.  It’s the first foreign property visit and the first submerged one too, plus customs officials, ocean tides, language barriers, endangered crocodiles, and a lack of safety nets.  But in the end, these challenges only served to enhance the experience.   

Later, back on shore only a few hours from takeoff and a flight back to a first world country, I feel the urge to let more of this great experience sink in.  I simply stand, watch and listen for a long time with no goals in mind other than letting the great imagery and sounds flow through me enhancing and deeply burning-in the memories of this experience. 

The omnipresent and graceful frigatebirds soaring overhead. 

The unrelenting breeze blowing gently through my hair. 

The foreign call of orioles from the mangrove.    

And most importantly, a white line of the Mesoamerican reef breaking waves a hundred meters off in the distance.

Magnificent Frigatebird

 LEARN MORE ABOUT THE MESOAMERICAN REEF HERE: 


Location: Punta Nizuc, Q.R., Mex

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