65 & 66: Facing South
W E S T E R N M D
I really dislike
cold weather. It’s gloomy, draining and
greatly demotivates. But every year, at
least once, I fully embrace the hate by spending a day wrapped in it. Often this involves hiking to a windy Appalachian
outcrop and letting the cold to penetrate to the core. Masochistically, this deliberate embracing of
cold inoculates me, taking the edge off a season of discontent. And it works every time: for several days
after, the cold becomes much more tolerable.
This winter’s inoculation
is a two-parter. In western Maryland,
not far from where the coldest temperature ever recorded in the state occurred,
two Nature Conservancy (TNC) properties - Fort
Hill Limestone Glade and Oldtown
Shale Barrens - share commonalities in that neither is open to the public
and both exude feeling of old western movies.
Mountains are comprised of
varying layers of rock. Some layers are
less resilient, and when exposed to the elements they crumble rapidly. Limestone and shale are particularly
vulnerable rock layers. As they break
down, their detritus accumulates into a loose jumble unable to hold much
water. When the detritus scree is on south-facing slopes, the dryness becomes
exaggerated since south-facing slopes receive the maximum amount of sunshine in
a day.
And one final ingredient adding
to the dryness of Fort Hill and Oldtown is this: orographic lifting, a
condition more-commonly known as a rain shadow.
Higher mountains just to the west of these properties act as cloud
rakes, scraping the moisture from the prevailing wind and clouds as they move
across the state. This rain shadow
effect is extreme in Maryland. The very
wettest and driest counties in the state are side by side. Making their border clearly visible are the many
large wind turbines that dot the high ridge demarcating the two locales.
Despite the fact that these
movie-worthy sites are visually exciting, they are very fragile and hence, not
open to the public. To visit either you need both permission and the secret
directions of how to access them. Being
a longtime supporter of TNC, I was unhesitatingly granted permission when I
called. The secretive directions to the first
property – Fort Hill - were amusing and included these challenges:
“park
across from the abandoned gas pumps”
“rock-hop
the mountain stream, if you can”
“walk
trespassingly along the RR tracks”
“when
you see the decrepit old fence, you’ve arrived.”
Though comical, the directions are
spot on. When I spot the decrepit old
fence, I in deed have arrived.
Ascending the scree of crumbled
cherty limestone up a steep mountain slope is challenging. Literally, two steps up are followed by one
step sliding back. After some huffing, I
reach a high spot smack in the middle of the glade.
What is most notable are the stunted
oaks. Typically in the Appalachians,
trees grow to 100 feet tall, but here on this poorly-soiled, south-facing slope
in the rain shadow of western Maryland, the oaks only reach 20 feet high… and are
spaced widely amid minimal understory.
The open feel of this unique glade is very welcomed. Normally, in this part of the country, mountain
visits are claustrophobic at times.
Fort Hill Limestone Glade |
I wander amid the stunted trees
then find a nice opening which affords the best views. Off to the west are views of the wind
turbines marking the edge of the rain shadow.
To the south, just across the Potomac River is West Virginia. And just over the ridge to my back is a deep,
north-facing ravine whose much taller trees provide a comforting backdrop. I revel in the peaceful sights of the glade
on this quiet morning, fully aware of the uniqueness of place.
Upon my return, I follow a deer
trail into the north-facing ravine and immediately notice an increase in bird
chatter. Bluebirds, downy woodpeckers,
and robins are aplenty – apparently more comfortable here than on the movie
sets of old westerns. The ravine
reconnects with the railroad tracks where I trespassingly walk, then rock-hop
again back toward the abandoned gas pumps and my parked car.
*****
Leaving Fort Hill, I head toward
Oldtown passing first through Cumberland where I shopped for an engagement ring
for my wife Allison thirty four years ago.
It was a shitty town then and still is today, unable to re-invent itself
in a modern economy. The mountains surrounding
Cumberland are beautiful and dramatic, but the town is suffering.
The route from Cumberland to Oldtown
essentially follows the C&O Canal.
When I arrive, more trespassing is required. The map TNC gave me didn’t specify where to
park so I pull off at a property posted strongly with no trespassing signs. Damn the torpedoes. I ascend trespassingly up the north-facing
slope knowing that very shortly I will enter TNC lands. I connect with another deer trail which is
the most efficient and primal path for gaining altitude. Soon I spot a welcoming TNC boundary sign. And a little further on I spot the
barrens.
Arriving from the back side has
placed me at the top of the ridge. Hesitant
to disturb this sensitive environment, I explore only along the top ridge,
looking down upon the barrens. I walk the
full length of the property noting its similarities to Fort Hill. And its differences too. The shale is more finely granulated than the
limestone of Fort Hill. Not quite sand-like,
but considerably smaller and much more fragile.
Instead of oaks, the dominant tree here is cedar, and the understory
contains a regionally rare three-flowered melic grass.
After a time of excited exploration,
I pause to let my intrusion quietly dissipate.
I sit still and meld into this property’s essence which is especially
enjoyable on this very sunny day. A
pileated woodpecker begins encircling me, cawing incessantly warning others of
my presence. To its chagrin though, my now-stillness
and total respect for this wonderful property make the warning call unnecessary. I pose no threat.
Though I have come to inoculate
myself from the cold, this spot atop the barrens is a rare, mid-winter
opportunity to bake. The warm sunshine
is offset by cool breezes – ideal conditions for lulling bathers into sun-burning. But this surprisingly warm experience has only
amplified why Fort Hill Limestone Glade and Oldtown Shale Barrens are such
unique places. At both, nature has lined
up a powerful trio: loose soil on south-facing slopes in a rain shadow. Not exactly the cold inoculation I set out to
acquire, but that’s OK. A mid-winter
sunburn is just as inoculating.
Oldtown Shale Barrens |
LEARN MORE ABOUT TNC’S WORK AT OLDTOWN HERE
Comments
Post a Comment