95 & 96: New York; New York
N E W Y O R K
New York is not all about its namesake city. Yes, New York City is America’s most populous and densely inhabited metropolis, but New York State, in contrast, is full of natural wonders. It’s America’s 10th most forested state, has the 6th most lakes of any state, and contains numerous marvels like Niagara Falls, Mt Marcy, and the Thousand Islands. It also has Adirondack Park – the largest publicly protected area in the contiguous USA and greater in size than Yellowstone, Everglades, Glacier, and Grand Canyon combined.
Regarding my old friend The Nature Conservancy (TNC), New York is a landmark state with 160 preserves. That’s right, 160 totaling 81,000 acres including Mianus Gorge, TNC’s first-ever preserve established in 1955. As part of a trip to Quebec for business, my wife and I are visiting two of these 160 preserves, each located on shorelines of iconic lakes. This quest I’m on to visit 100 preserves has taken me to 21 different states/countries, and NY will now bring that total to 22.
NY has a variety of geographic features like lakes, mountains, and coasts, but a much lesser known one is an alvar. Alvars are grassland areas of sparse vegetation, and discovering this new environment helps explain why I love visiting TNC preserves so much. Each property presents a uniquely intriguing experience.
At our first stop - El Dorado Coastal Preserve along Lake Ontario in Henderson, NY - TNC protects this rare alvar environment. Alvars are essentially areas of very shallow soil atop a limestone base. They often flood in spring and face drought in summer. This stressed environment supports rare plants and animals, including species more commonly found in prairies like shrikes and quail, butterflies, snails, and even rattlesnakes. Lichen and mosses are common, but trees and bushes are either absent or stunted.
El Dorado’s path from the parking area to the shoreline is relatively short but quite varied. It starts by passing through a thick cedar grove where we feel the temperature drop noticeably, then onto boardwalks over wetlands, and back again through woods. It also passes a few alvars along the way whose openness brings claustrophobia relief.
Another important feature protected here is algae. Yup, the green slime is worth protecting. The shoals along Lake Ontario are subject to frequent algae blooms. This green slime supports a thriving environment for crustaceans and insects, which in turn provides a food base for migratory birds. It’s a slippery shoreline I step upon when moving in for closeup photos of slime-covered rocks. The success of this environment is audibly evident as you walk the shoreline where crunchy shells supplant soft silent sand. High concentrations of birds journeying between Canada and South America stop at El Dorado’s protected and plentiful haven to refuel. So much so that it’s become the number one birding hotspot in the area.
Alvars and algae… these items alone are worth a visit to El Dorado. But a cherry on top is its location along the shore of one of the world’s Great Lakes which just magnifies the satisfaction of adding El Dorado to the collection.
Across the state is the second preserve visited, albeit not a single location but rather a mosaic of works. TNC’s efforts on the New York side of the Champlain Valley are varied and include the Boquet River Preserve, Noblewood Park, and partnering with the Ausable River Association (AsRA).
Here’s a simple way to describe the Champlain Valley from a New York state of mind: Between NY’s Adirondack Mountains to the west and Vermont’s Green Mountains to the east lies the Champlain Valley. Its center is Lake Champlain, a 120-mile-long narrow lake whose water flows northward into Canada, the St. Lawrence River, and ultimately into the Atlantic Ocean. The Adirondacks contain NY’s highest peaks at over 5,000 feet. From within those high peaks, the state’s two steepest rivers – the Boquet and Ausable - tumble swiftly over short distances draining into Lake Champlain. During that tumble, the Ausable River dramatically surges two miles through Ausable Chasm – known as the Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks.
Water moves fast on the NY side of the Champlain Valley, and some of TNC’s work here addresses this very issue. Several tributaries of the Ausable cut through outdated culverts designed long ago and unprepared for the increased water flow that occurs during heavy rains. The old culverts are too thin which exacerbates flow or clog easily which fragments habitat for certain wildlife. In partnership with AsRA, TNC funds and replaces culverts here with ecological-friendly designs that slow the surges, reduce clogs, and keep habitats connected.
At both TNC’s Boquet River Nature Preserve and Noblewood Park, the Boquet River confluences with Lake Champlain. Here, protected floodplain forests also slow down the flow before emptying into the lake. The floodplains absorb stormwater, reduce sediment, and provide climate refuge for native mussels, fish, and other organisms.
At the Boquet River Preserve, TNC is doing more than just protecting water. Tim’s Trail is an ADA-compliant pea-gravel loop which brings nature experiences more easily to the mobility-challenged. It’s a lovely stroll through the woods, which during our visit includes a Hermit thrush serenade – the forest’s most lyrical birdsong. As we loop, several Eastern whitetip snails are spotted inching across the trail. (Hope I didn’t step on any). Along the trail’s edge is a carpet of varying green American hog-peanut vines. And at each trail turn is a variety of blooming flowers including many bulbous Bladder Campions.
Chasms and Culverts and Confluences and Campions… these items alone are worth a visit the Champlain Valley. And that they’re found around another iconic lake magnifies the satisfaction of adding the Champlain Valley to the collection.
After spending so much time around lakes and rivers during these preserve visits, it seems appropriate to end the trip with a dip. Near Willsboro, NY, at the Boquet’s confluence, I plunge into Lake Champlain. It’s the furthest north I’ve ever swam… and feels fabulous. Not only for the thrill of the chill, but also because I now know more intimately about TNC’s varied and vital efforts to keep this water fresh.
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