29: Sideling Hill Creek Preserve

Tussocks, Sideling Hill Creek Preserve

B E L L E G R O V E,  M D

Shortly after crossing into West Virginia, the road in this famously curvy and mountainous state becomes arrow straight for the next twelve miles.  As the trajectory of the road changes, so too changes my own arc. 

My day so far has been a bit of a scramble as I’ve been gathering and packing gear for a very early morning visit to an eighth Nature Conservancy (TNC) preserve in eight days.  Almost to the point of obsession, I strive to visit new places like today at Sideling Hill Creek Preserve in the early morning hours.  This strategy, which I’ve been employing for years, often bears wonderful fruits.  How often have I had places of such beauty at sunrise all to myself?  That solitude and oneness with places have made for incredible experiences.  But such an obsession does come with a price: early morning scrambles.  As I hit this stretch of straightness though, today’s scramble gives way to an incredibly relaxing feeling. 

I’m beginning the second of three weeks away from the routine of life – a routine I’ve been engrossed in for the past thirty years.  Today marks the beginning of the deep reset I was hoping to attain during this short sabbatical.  Though I’ve enjoyed my standard, personnel-manual-approved one-week respites through the years, I was curious to discover what would happen when I disconnected for a longer period of time. 

To exit the superhighway and try a slower pace. 

To turn the volume off and hear new sounds. 

To take the fence down and see where I wander. 

And so far, I’m loving the feeling.

Frankly, there were concerns that such a potent agenda would lead to fatigue; too much of a good thing, perhaps.  Over the past thirty years, the smaller adventures I’ve undertake have built a foundation – the pillars that hold up a well-lived life.  I typically go months before feeling the need to add new pillars.  But this sabbatical’s playbook calls for adding new pillars nearly every day.  How would I handle such potency?   So far, there’s not a hint of fatigue and the clustered pillars that I’m quickly accumulating are adding an incredible amount of strength to an even more well-lived life. 

Near the end of the straight arrow I’ve been on I cross the Potomac into Maryland.  West of Hancock, the interstate passes through one of the best rock exposures in the entire northeastern United States.  Over 800 feet of strata in a tightly folded syncline are exposed by this impressive road cut which traverses Sideling Hill.  So impressive that it has its own rest stop and visitor’s center. 

Just to the west, fed by the slopes of Sideling Hill, flows Sideling Hill Creek – a pristine stream of very high water quality harboring many intact aquatic communities including the globally rare Harperella plant.  The watershed of this creek is sparsely populated and mostly covered in forest keeping the water quality extremely high.  But it’s an inconsistently flowing creek.  Nearby water-shedding shale barrens as well as a high rate of transpiration from the forest amplify the variability of the water level in this creek.  In the spring when rain and snow melt are occurring, this creek reaches maximum flow, as it has presented itself today.  Later in the summer, the flow rate can drop to as low as zero.  Harperella have adapted to such extreme conditions – able to survive the scouring effects of spring deluges as well as the inevitable summer drought that follows. 

To enhance today’s visit, I downloaded the audio tour from the TNC website.  At various spots on the property, recorded message provide detailed explanations of what you’re seeing and why.  It’s a terrific way to more scientifically experience a beautiful habitat, and it brings surprising awareness of the subtleties often overlooked at such a vibrant place. 

Ironically, the main trail of this preserve doesn’t actually follow the namesake creek.  Instead, it leads into Poole Hollow containing an ephemeral stream which feeds Sideling Hill Creek.  The trail on this early spring day had not recently been attended to.  Debris from autumn and winter covered the path forcing me to follow the blazes more intently.  But the elusive condition of the trail served a fine purpose today; it enhanced the pristine feel of the hollow, making it more of an untouched woods. 

Pushing deeper into the hollow is a pleasant walk.  The deeper I go, the more tightly compressed the ravine becomes.  At the deepest point in Poole Hollow, the trail drops steeply downward through the trees and crosses the stream, then immediately begins a sharp ascent back out of the depths.  It’s the exhilarating, roller coaster section of the trail.  When it levels off again, I clear a fallen log, take a seat and light a cigar.  It’s a great spot to sit still, watch, and listen to the forest breath.  

Long ago, this habit of cigars in the woods was born.  Perhaps it’s an antidote to my otherwise healthy lifestyle.  A little rolled tobacco now and then is simply a joy – one of life’s guilty pleasures, like breaking the speed limit, buying expensive beer, flirting, or having a second dessert. 

A cigar in the woods is more than just a guilty pleasure though.  It more so serves as a means of grounding me.  Lingering in single spot as the tobacco slowly burns allows me to absorb my surroundings more thoroughly.  Sitting quiet and still for an extended time until you feel completely welcomed by the woods is magical experience. 

As I emerge from Poole Hollow the trail follows a marshy floodplain back to the parking area.  Here I encounter a challenge.  Blown down across a small footbridge is a fairly sizable tree.  If it were any bigger, the challenge would be too great.  I grab hold of its upper trunk and rotate it away from the bridge in a sweeping, grunt-inducing move.  The physics of leverage help conquer the challenge and feels pretty manly, I must admit.  The conquered challenge is a small return of thanks to TNC for their incredible contributions in making this sabbatical such a meaningful endeavor. 

A few miles south of Poole Hollow is another contribution by TNC.  The Yonker Tract was part of the original land purchase, but now has now been re-sold.  The property though, has a permanent conservation easement in place which prevents development and puts restrictions on how the land can be used; adding another link in the chain that assures Sideling Hill Creek remains pristine.  Much of the Yonker Tract fronts the creek which flows beautifully through this area and harbors an area rich in Harperella.

The thin country road that leads to the Yonker tract is a driving delight, and today’s weather only adds to its enticing character.  At nearly every bend in the road the urge to stop and capture a few images is overwhelming - so much so that I feel as though I’m losing control of the moment.  And so, I stow my camera and decide to be in the moment and stop trying to capture it.  It makes for a much more enjoyable drive to one of the prettier spots in western Maryland.

I stand creekside for a long time in the afternoon sun watching the crystal clear water flow by.  It gently tumbles over the smoothed rocks in the streambed.  An occasional leaf drifts by in the current.  I watch each intently until it flows beyond reasonable sight.  What is it about water that’s such an attraction?  Its calming effect is remarkable.  This time beside Sideling Hill Creek has become a key contributor to the deep re-set this second week away from it all has brought. 

As I leave the Yonker property, I realize I’ve spent my entire morning at this two-tract preserve and have not encountered another living soul.  Access to Sideling Hill Creek Preserve is easy, and the weather has been great today, yet I’m all alone.  With some smart planning and the little luck, it’s still fairly easy to find really cool places in the world like Sideling where you have them all to yourself.  I’m not sure the next generation will find such places so easily. 

“With growing population and people more and more removed from close contact with the earth and those values which for ages have molded us, there is great need for men to come in touch with silence, cyclic rhythms, and natural beauty if they are to retain their perspective.  Tension, speed, and lack of real purpose in their daily lives make it mandatory they go to places where they can find themselves, regain their dignity and fulfillment as humans.”

From Reflections From the North Country by Sigurd F. Olson

After I leave Sideling Hill Creek and the Yonker Tract, I’m sitting across the interstate alone in a booth at the Oak Barrel Café replenishing when a soft, jazzy version of Elvis’ “Can’t Help Falling” starts playing.  I notice the customers have stopped talking.  At about the same time, I begin softly humming along to one of my all-time favorite songs.  And I can’t help thinking about how fortunate I am to be able to spend the next few weeks continuing to take in more incredible TNC preserves like Sideling Hill Creek. 

I’m eight for eight: I’ve loved every one of the amazing places I’ve visited so far.  The pillars are assembling and the rose-tinted glasses tour continues...

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