52: Aha

Cove Mountain Preserve, Marysville, Pennsylvania

 

M A R Y S V I L L E,  P A

The odd numbered Interstate 81 is an iconic north-south route through the America’s Mid-Atlantic, but in Pennsylvania it nearly changes to an even-numbered east-west route.  Highways generally follow the path of least resistance, and in Pennsylvania, I-81’s path lies along the foothills of the Kittatinny Ridge – an s-curved ridge that runs from the state’s south-central border near Hagerstown to the Delaware Water Gap. 

The Kittatinny serves as a forested corridor allowing wildlife to move through the state, and its varying elevations make it a hardy landscape adaptable to changing climates.   This Pennsylvania treasure is the single most important resilient landscape in the state, and a vital component of the Appalachian Mountain chain’s role in preserving forests, clean streams and natural diversity.

About halfway through the state, the Kittatinny reaches a dramatic geological confluence – the Susquehanna Water Gaps, a National Natural Landmark.  Just north of the state capital in Harrisburg, the Susquehanna slices prominently through five mountains creating a series of water gaps.  At each slicing, river rapids are all that’s left of the connection between the ridges.  Viewed on a topographic map, this area is especially appealing to geography nerds like me. 

I’ve come to The Nature Conservancy’s (TNC) newest property in Pennsylvania: Cove Mountain Preserve.  It’s a 350 acre Kittatinny Ridge asset that borders the Susquehanna River at Dauphin Narrows near Marysville.  This preserve is essentially still under construction.  Two new trails lace the property; its red trail – intended to be a loop hike – has not yet been completed.  Shortly after setting out from the parking lot, a fork forces a decision: red or yellow.  I choose to follow red first.  Knowing a loop will not be an option today, the map at least shows the red trail currently apexes at an overlook, and trails that end in overlooks are my favorites. 

The red trail’s overlook is just a twenty minute ride followed by a twenty minute hike from the state capital.  The view is a vast one; the buzz of humanity is on full display from this quiet wooded perch.  The sounds are dampened though by the distance.  Trains quietly chug across the ancient Rockville Bridge; tractor-trailers glide along I-8; planes queue up to land at HIA, and steam plumes from distant Three Mile Island nuclear plant.

Though the view toward the capital and its civilization is nicely thought-provoking, I came to the woods for nature; not mankind.  And so, I simply turn and look the other way toward the forest’s higher ridge.  It’s a calmingly meditative to stand still and stare at trees.  I become engrossed in the abounding textures.  The patterns found in the varying species of tree bark, green and white lichens, sandstone boulders, and fallen leaves draw my attention, and after a time, my camera.  It’s a very foresty engagement. 

Though nice, this red trail overlook lacks the punch I’ve come to expect from TNC properties.  TNC properties unfailingly provide an aha moment where the uniqueness of the protected landscape becomes clearly evident.  This overlook, halfway up the Kittatinny Ridge, is not that place.  Perhaps the future loop will bring an aha. 

Back at the fork, I veer onto the yellow trail.  At first it’s just an old dirt road but then turns into the woods where the blazing is a bit worn off.  A thick blanket of fallen leaves at this time of year and a few downed trees make following the trail a bit challenging.  I spin frequently to look back from where I came to spot the return blazes.  Soon though, the trail begins to ascend following the ravine of a thin mountain stream.  Here too excitement starts to build.  On a map, this trail apexes at an overlook near Dauphin Narrows.  Perhaps an aha moment is ahead. 

The trickling stream, hidden under leaves in spots, is a welcomed partner.  I hop over her a few times to find the driest footing as I ascend.  In the distant is a triple yellow blaze: woodsman code for the end of the trail.  And soon as I reach the triple blaze I let out an aha.  From this vantage point, the dramatics of Dauphin Narrows comes clearly into focus.  I stare across the rapids to the opposite shore where the Kittatinny Ridge continues onward toward New Jersey.  The Susquehanna’s eons of persistent churning has carved this ridge in two.  The unrelenting power of geography is on full display, as is a stark resetting of the scale of time.  One man’s life is but a blip in time when viewed from this perch.  Adding just a bit more to the aha is Lady Liberty.  In the middle of the rapids on an old railroad pier stands a replica of the Statue of Liberty turned in a direction looking to NYC – something only geography nerds make note of.

Though this perch is within close sight of many of mankind’s noise makers (Routes 15 and 22, the towns of Marysville and Dauphin, and trains aplenty) the rapids here provide a nice natural white noise drowning out most of the unnatural sounds bringing even more oomph to the aha.   

Near the end of this woodswalk, I notice a real rise in confidence.  This happens often while hiking.  A little caution and trepidation when first setting out is often flipped into confidence by the end of a hike.  As was the case today: it’s the beginning of hunting season in a state very well known for hunter participation.  In the parking lot were a pair of trucks most likely titled to hunters.  The muddy red trail revealed fresh boot prints heading in the same direction as me – leading me toward their hunting grounds apparently.  So initially, I hike tepidly with eyes and ears perked cautiously.  But by hike’s end I’m stepping with confidence, enjoying the free movement, and feel as though I own these woods. 

On the drive home down Interstate 81 - a road I’ve traveled aplenty over a lifetime - I’m abuzz with the post-woods highs of calmed and lower blood pressure, the rush of mental adrenaline, and the taste of tobacco from a mountain perch roast a few hours ago.  The Kittatinny Ridge is to my right for much of the ride.  It’s a vital ridge mostly taken for granted by travelers, including me in the past.  Now though, because of today, it’s a new partner whose worth has come clearly into focus and a ridge I’ll look to with humble fondness whenever I pass this way again.

LEARN MORE ABOUT TNC’S WORK AT COVE MTN HERE.