Devil Winds, Santa Rosa Plateau, Murrieta, CA (#114)
California’s most common landscape is chaparral – akin to what’s found in the Mediterranean where winters are mild and summers are dry.
Scrubby and thorny,
chaparral carries the scent of sage. It shelters mountain lions and wrentits —
the little brown songbirds whose calls bounce like ping-pong balls across the hillsides. It’s well adapted to fire. And found at all elevations throughout the
state.
At a high elevation
sits the Santa Rosa Plateau which lies at the southern end of the Santa Ana
Mountains, about halfway between Los Angeles and San Diego. It’s a rare flat expanse above the crowded
valleys below and is chock-full of uninterrupted chaparral. Occasionally, ferocious winds roar across
the plateau and the Santa Ana mountains.
These devil winds – the Santa Anas – sometimes fan wildfires, as
happened recently in Palisades, Altadena, and Malibu.
Steely Dan once
wrote lyrics about those devil winds. For
years the words Here come those Santa Ana winds again floated in my head
without context. Maybe it was
foreshadowing of my lifelong fascination with exploring new landscapes. If it somehow led me to this exploration of chaparral,
I owe Walter Becker and Donald Fagen a beer.
The parking lot at
the visitor center is empty when I arrive before sunrise. I set out on a quick
loop trail to get an up-close taste of chaparral. It’s a quiet stroll around boulders, sage, and
the plateau’s defining tree - the Engelmann oaks which grow only in Southern
California and the Baja peninsula.
Next, I drive very slowly
to the vernal pool trail several miles away.
It too has an empty parking lot. The mountaintop air is cool and refreshing. A few streaks of sunshine radiate through the
clouds bringing spirit to the seemingly unending chaparral on a Sunday morning.
The trek to the pool
is a naturalist’s delight. Though the
pool is dry, it remains an active place.
Phoebes, kingbirds, meadowlarks, woodpeckers and goldfinch are thriving. The omnipresent chamise – the thick ground
covering brush – is holding onto remnants of its yellow flowers. A patch of prickly pear is plump with fruit. A deer is spotted on a knoll. And coyote scat is aplenty on the trail.
Exploring the
plateau has been wonderful – very peaceful morning strolls through an unfamiliar
landscape of quiet beauty. My senses have
been on full alert. When I return to the
parking lot, a jovial volunteer fills me in on the importance of the Engelmanns
and is impressed by the list of birds I encountered.

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