Sheltered Lands

  W I N K L E M A N,  A Z Awareness of Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness emerged years ago.   Amazing imagery of a fertile desert oasis burrowed deep into my imagination.   And that to hike the canyon requires a permit, and a willingness to tramp right through its ankle-deep perennial stream, dug even deeper into my imagination.   In 2016 on sabbatical in Arizona, I visited 7B Ranch – a Nature Conservancy (TNC) property acquired in conservation credit swap with a copper mining company.   Property Manager Celeste Andresen led me on a private tour of 7B, but also questioned my judgment.   7B is a mere 45 minutes from Aravaipa.   If coming to this part of Arizona, why not include Aravaipa?   (Apparently, she and her husband were super-hikers, aware of all the best places, so their recommendations should have been heeded.) At the time, I didn’t realize how smart that question was.   Yes, I had considered Aravaipa, but as a solo hiker, I was hes...

Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve, Arizona P A T A G O N I A,  A Z A black cat crosses my path as I’m leaving the Stage Stop Inn in Patagonia, AZ.  I’m anti-superstitious, so I scoff at the encounter.   But then, thirty minutes later the only bad luck I’ll have in Arizona rears its head.   The plan for visiting the Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve included a promise that the gate would be open for me at sunrise.   When the gate is locked, I immediately think of that damn feline.   As the sun rises on my last day in Arizona, I wait impatiently.  I have a flight to catch later so I’m hyper-aware of how fast the clock is ticking.  I’m determined to see this property, locked gate or not.  As I was driving in earlier, I noticed another gate.  It too was locked but seemed a lot easier to hop than the barbed one I’m currently deterred by.   After a few more minutes of waiting impatiently, I head back down the road, park wher...

Canelo Hills, Arizona E L G I N,  A Z About the time I lose cell reception, I spot a Rough Road Ahead sign as I’m traveling along Route 83 near Elgin, Arizona.  The sign is right.  My truck begins bouncing and I decide to slow down but I’m still on track to meet JB Miller as planned, assuming I spot the final turn into the driveway.  There are no signs leading to the Canelo Hills Cienega Preserve , a property that JB manages for The Nature Conservancy.  Despite the fact that it’s their second oldest preserve and one of only ten National Natural Landmarks in the state, it’s not open to the public.  Hence, the lack of signs.  You need to be given the secret directions; and a printed copy is best in this cell-challenged area.  When I pull up to JB’s cottage, I’m greeted first by his friendly dogs, then by a belching JB.  He just finished a meatloaf sandwich.  He grabs his floppy hat, walks me across the yard to his office and sh...

Ramsey Canyon, Arizona S I E R R A  V I S T A,  A Z At the 6,000 foot contour line along the Hamburg Trail, I call it quits.  The altitude and switchbacks have defeated me.  I’m not going to make it to the overlook and back before sunset.  After shaking off my disappointment, it quickly becomes apparent that my stopping spot is a blessing in disguise.  The ravine I’m in is of world-renown beauty.  I take a seat to catch my breath.  When I quiet down, the serenity of my stopping spot turns disappointment into amazement.  Though I don’t have the clear view the overlook would have provided, I can see Sierra Vista in the distance through the trees.  I suddenly feel the loneliness I was hoping for.  An hour ago, I entered Ramsey Canyon Preserve and charged straight back as deep as I could in hopes it would afford a slow, sunset-chasing walk back out – and hopefully a walk out devoid of all other canyon visitors.  From my rest...

Mesquite Bosque, Mammoth, AZ M A M M O T H,  A Z I’m standing in the ruins of an old Hohokam pit house near Mammoth, Arizona.  Scattered around are easy-to-find pieces of broken pottery dating back 1,100 years.   Back east, a property like this would be cordoned off and have walking trails leading to placards explaining Hohokam history.   Park rangers would be standing nearby to answer questions and make sure no one touches or takes anything, and a nearby gift shop would offer fridge magnets, coffee mugs, and tee shirts.   But the property I’m standing on is not open to the public yet.   It’s owned by a mining company hoping to swap it with the Federal Government for copper rich lands located 60 miles away.   Until that swap occurs, this 3,000 acre ranch along the vital and vibrant San Pedro River will continue to be managed by The Nature Conservancy (TNC).   My host is way better than a park ranger.  Celeste Andresen is TNC’s ranch...