35: Threats in the Hills

Canelo Hills, Arizona


E L G I N,  A Z

About the time I lose cell reception, I spot a Rough Road Ahead sign as I’m traveling along Route 83 near Elgin, Arizona.  The sign is right.  My truck begins bouncing and I decide to slow down but I’m still on track to meet JB Miller as planned, assuming I spot the final turn into the driveway.  There are no signs leading to the Canelo Hills Cienega Preserve, a property that JB manages for The Nature Conservancy.  Despite the fact that it’s their second oldest preserve and one of only ten National Natural Landmarks in the state, it’s not open to the public.  Hence, the lack of signs.  You need to be given the secret directions; and a printed copy is best in this cell-challenged area. 

When I pull up to JB’s cottage, I’m greeted first by his friendly dogs, then by a belching JB.  He just finished a meatloaf sandwich.  He grabs his floppy hat, walks me across the yard to his office and shows pictures of the rare fish found in the cienega – a desert marsh.  More ominously, he’s proud of his mountain lion picture he snapped with a motion sensing camera.  “Caught that one right here on this property” he says.  If that’s not enough to scare me, we later have a frank discussion about snakes.  “The Mojave are just plain mean.  Back up if you see one.  And if bitten, get to the hospital immediately”.  Out here, at best, that would be an hour drive across rough roads. 

It gets worse. 

He talks about a few areas of the loosely maintained trail that might cause confusion.  Then tells me he’s got to leave for an appointment in half an hour.  I’ll be all alone on a property I’m not familiar with that’s chock full of scary things. 

Or maybe I won’t be alone… during our discussion he also said that illegals from Mexico have been spotted on the property.  The Canelo Hills start in Mexico and provide an ideally covered trail into America. 

Lastly, he apologizes for the hot day.  I didn’t feel the heat until he mentioned it, but once I step a few yards down the trail through an open field, of which there are many on this property, I’m sweating.  Fun times await in the Canelo Hills.

Despite the threats though, my two hour walk was quite enjoyable, albeit on high alert and mindful of scary things.  My loop around the cienega revealed much beauty.  The sounds and sights of the clear stream were ever-present and the lifeblood of the vitality which flourishes near its banks.  Shade-hopping between some of the world's largest Cottonwoods provided the respite I needed to stay reasonably cool.  Lingering in the shade also forced me to observe more thoroughly my surroundings.  Standing still, cooling, viewing, listening and resting in the beautiful Canelo Hills  under a Cottonwood canopy with water trickling by was yet another in a long list of terrific ponder spots on this tour. 

I survive my loop hike unscathed.  No Mojave snakes, or mountain lions, or illegal immigrants, or getting lost, or becoming dehydrated.  Nothing but pure bliss was encountered in the Canelo Hills.  I’m proud of myself for not giving in to the threats lurking.  The challenges faced only enhance the strong memories I’ll take from this spectacular place. 

I wish JB was still around after my hike; I want to thank him once again for his hospitality and ask a few more questions.  But like a lot of the great things in our life, we’re often left wanting more.  And that’s exactly how I feel as I leave the beautiful Canelo Hills.  

Cottonwood Canopy
LEARN MORE ABOUT TNC's WORK AT CANELO HERE. 
Location: Canelo Hills Preserve, Elgin, AZ

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